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Alternative metals roll along: the other white metals--palladium, steel, titanium, and tungsten--are set to explode in the jewelry industry.(MARKET REPORT)

…a thousand bucks for a tungsten carbide wedding ring. It's unmeltable. It never scratches. Men like it."

RELATED ARTICLE: Horological Metallica

Fine watches were long made only of gold, silver, or platinum. No more. It began years ago with stainless steel. Now, many mid- and upper-price brands use that and other metals to encase watch works. Here are some.

* Titanium, a light metal, is used increasingly by watchmakers for cases, dials, and/or movement components. At the end of the 1990s, very few brands used it. Now dozens do, including new watches this year from Corum (for the first time, in its 12-sided Competition), Giuliano Mazzuoli's limited edition Manometro, TAG Heuer, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tissot, and Citizen.

* Zalium is a zirconium-based alloy, harder than titanium, used in the aerospace industry. It's used, too, for Harry Winston Rare Timepieces' three-year-old Project Z watches including this year's Vintage Spirit and Sports Spirit models.

* Hublot's automatic Mag Bang features two world firsts in metals usage. First, its bezel, case, and back are made of magnesium--one of Earth's most common elements, a third lighter than aluminum and 2.6 times lighter than titanium. It's the first time magnesium has been used for watches. (While extra-strong, it's also very difficult to machine.) Second,…

…knows about it, and, second, it's the easiest precious metal to introduce to a public looking for alternatives to problem-laden white gold and unaffordable platinum. Once I make the case for palladium, it almost always leads to a sale. So when other jewelers tell me they don't stock it because no one asks for it, I breathe a sigh of relief and think to myself, 'So I've got this incredible product all to myself a little while longer.'" --Jim Adair, Adair Jewelers, Missoula, Montana

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

14k platinum 

 
"I stock 585 platinum jewelry because I can compare it to 14k and 18k 
gold and build on concepts with which my customers are familiar. On top 
of that, it has all the advantages of platinum. It's white and it's 
hypoallergenic. All in all, I think 585 platinum is an alternative metal 
with a lot of potential." 
--Ron McClave, McClave Jewelers, Glendale, California

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

gunmetal gray 

 
"We carry titanium but it hasn't been doing as well as tungsten. We are 
doing phenomenally well with the new tungsten line from Benchmark. It's 
now our number one men's collection. Tungsten is a higher price-point 
and more scratch resistant. Men love the gunmetal gray. The price gets 
their attention but they love the durability. They really want a ring 
they can wear 24/7 and forget about. Benchmark has…
…(212) 625-3555, fax (212) 625-0552, e-mail: jjmarco@aol.com, Web site: www.jjmarco.com.

Italian Venetian glass in 18k gold. Part of a collection of earrings, pins, and pendants in classic Italian style. Suggested retail: $316 - $636. The Cargo Hold, Inc., P.O. Box 239, Charleston, SC 29402; (843) 723-3341, fax (843) 722-1377. Photo by Don Taylor.

Trew Tungsten[TM] by Trent West The world's 1st Permanently Polished[TM] rings, inlaid with platinum or gold. Tungsten carbide is harder than granite. All rings are comfort fit and have a lifetime size exchange warranty. Not related to steel or titanium. Available only from Trent west Designs. Suggested retail: $850. Trew Tungsten by Trent West, 41 Hangar Way, Watsonville, CA 95076; (831) 768-8298, fax (831) 768-8299, Web site: www.trewtungsten.com.

14k cuff links and stud set. Genuine onyx and mother of pearl. Suggested retail: Cuff inks - $230, stud set - $360. Legere, P.O. Box 546, Attleboro, MA 02703; (800) 451-2922, fax (508) 226-1954.

Leo Frank & Sons delivers "Nothing But Profit" with this stunning 14k white gold Estate Fringe Neckpiece. Diamond cut for impeccable sparkle and conveniently adjustable from 15" to 17". #WGBD55-17. Also available in 14k yellow gold. Keystone priced at $395. Leo Frank & Sons, Inc., 1158 East Big Beaver, Tray, MI 48083; (800) 934-3900, fax (248) 689-7716, e-mail:…

…$276 pair. Ear Charms, 1855 Laguna Canyon Rd., Laguna Beach, CA 92651; (800) 998-3277, fax (949) 376-0205, e-mail: info@earcharms.com, Web site: www.earcharms.com.

The newest trend in gold -- Aaura updates the classic rolo-link with this charming heart toggle clasp that is all the rage. Available in 14k yellow gold, this design captures your heart and the look your customers are asking for. Suggested retail: $379 -$799.

Aaura, Inc., 67 E. Madison Ave., 19th Fl., Chicago, IL 60603; (800) 345-4445, fax (312) 641-6520, e-mail: maryp@aaura.com, Web site: www.aaura.com.

Cubic zirconia set in 14k gold; lifetime warranty. 14k white gold earrings, 7.04 ct. t.w. -$350. 14k white gold pendant, 6.11 ct. t.w. on a cage chain - $350. 14k white gold ring, 6.64 ct. t.w. - $310. All prices are suggested retail. Diamonair, Inc., 52 Horsehill Rd., Cedar Knolls, NJ 07927; (973) 539-6100, fax (973) 539-9042, e-mail; mackerman@diamonair.com.

Crouching Dragon by David Lin - The exquisite dragon carving is a symbol of strength and power. This design is available in all of the colors of jade. The jade is set in an 18k gold mounting. Specify, sizes 5 to 9. Suggested retail: $1,900. T. S. Lin & Sons Inc., 1910 Ala Moana Blvd., Suite 41C, Honolulu, HI 96815; (808) 955-8686, fax (808) 955-1881, e-mail:…